![]() ![]() This distinction is not generally made any longer. Traditionally, in horology (the study of timekeeping), the term clock was used for a striking clock, while a clock that did not strike the hours audibly was called a timepiece. ![]() A major advance occurred with the invention of the verge escapement, which made possible the first mechanical clocks around 1300 in Europe, which kept time with oscillating timekeepers like balance wheels. Water clocks, along with sundials, are possibly the oldest time-measuring instruments. There is a range of duration timers, a well-known example being the hourglass. Some predecessors to the modern clock may be considered "clocks" that are based on movement in nature: A sundial shows the time by displaying the position of a shadow on a flat surface. Devices operating on several physical processes have been used over the millennia. The clock is one of the oldest human inventions, meeting the need to measure intervals of time shorter than the natural units such as the day, the lunar month, and the year. Nevertheless I build it as a tool to begin with (and as an entry in the "Build a Tool" contest).A clock or chronometer is a device that measure and display time. It was not my intention to fabricate a concealed weapon and I am not planning to use it as such, but if you would do so it would be entirely on your own responsability. Perhaps it could even break glass in an emergency, I'm not keen on trying that out. I think of an EDC (every day carry) where one could apply the pen as a sort of Kubotan in a self defence situation. The pointy steel edge could be used in other circumstances as well. One could not use mild steel for that since it does not contain enough carbon to be hardened - but that is another subject. ![]() With the same dimensions it should work fine but keep in mind that the point should be hard enough to actually be able to scribe in the metal. Perhaps one could use a metal rod in stead of a precision screwdriver. I did try out another generic brand which had the same kind of filling but the scriber didn't retract because the pen already had a faulty mechanism to begin with (testing before is handy sometimes). I used a pen of the Parker brand, simply because that was at hand and both the filling and the screwdriver had more or less the same dimensions. I can carry it with me without worrying of loosing it or more importantly: injuring myself or damaging my clothes. I therefore call it my "Portable Scriber" -) You could also use a file to get the same result, it only takes longer and requires more "elbow grease".Īfter testing, the scriber works just like a "normal" scriber but this one can also be handled as an everyday ballpoint pen. I found both steps easy to do since I put the screwdriver in a cordless drill and sanded it with a bench grinder. Because it was a screwdriver to begin with, the metal should be hard enough that no extra hardening is required. Since scribers work best with pointy edges, you also need to sharpen it. Use the hacksaw to remove the top and sand it so that it fits the plastic. Mark it with a sharpy or use some tape in order not to grind off too much material. Lay both the screwdriver and the filling besides each other and mark where you need to cut the screwdriver's head off, keeping in mind it needs to fit in the hole of the plastic and at the same time needs to have the same dimensions as the original filling. Clean the screwdriver in order to be able to freely move up and down the pen (in my case I had to remove the rust with sandpaper).Įxamine the hole in the plastic and notice the dept and width of it. ![]()
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